BobanR

Alfa Brera 2.4 fra Serbia

82 innlegg i emnet

Hei alle sammen

I do hope that above means "Hi all", since I do not speak Norwegian, and my friend has translated it for me(he has weird sense of humor).

Since I do plan to drive my car from Serbia to Norway in March next year, to visit my friend Sasa in Oslo, we came up with an idea to start a thread here.

Issue is, i can do it in English only, and i don't know if it's against forum rules.

If language is not a problem, I would present my Brera with write-ups on the mods, and would be more than happy to answer all the questions.

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It does say "Hello all", so you can trust him ;)

Forum-rules says something along the lines to " Write as good norwegian as possible. English, swedish and danish is also good. However, you may not get respons/answers from everyone"

Personally I would enjoy following your thread if you want to share. Might end up meeting someone from this club when you visit Norway aswell :)

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As long as it's not against forum rules, I'd be more than happy to have a thread here. I have been to Norway in 2014, visiting friend of mine. I got to see biathlon at Holmenkollen and also met Ole Einar while i was there.  I've been fan since the 90s, so i couldn't be happier :)

Plan was for me to drive Brera to Norway this year and see Ole's last race in Norway, but unfortunately, I couldn't find time to do it. Luckily, as you probably know, Ole is racing in 2017. too, so, plan is to drive to Oslo, watch biathlon, and stay for Alfisti meeting (as i understand, it's being held in March, traditionally?).

Little something about the car...It's Brera from 2007, 210HP model. It was actually impulse buy. Ever since Brera was announced, i thought it was most beautiful car there is. Once I laid my eyes on it, I was doomed.

When I got it, car was almost perfect, but had few scratches on aluminum trim. I did google search, wanting to source out new center console, but unfortunately landed on the wrong thread on AO forum. And that's how everything started... James and Pete are the ones to blame. The fact that I could actually increase horse power brought up Jeremy Clarkson in me, and  i was hooked...

In the next few posts, I'll bring you up to the speed, since project has been going on for year and the half now, so bare with me...

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So, thank you for having me on the forum :)

As already stated, it's 2007., 210HP Brera...Originaly  ;D

Here are few pictures, and a list of things done so far. Unfortunately, it's not the complete list, but as you'll see, there is a lot going on...

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Done so far:

Performance:

- Map v3.0 by TribesMan

- Turbo:

GTB2056 , modified with the GTB2260VK Audi internals (with billet compressor wheel, machined compressor cover, exchanged VNT shroud, VNT pack, turbine wheel, performance stager gap piston ring seals etc), with the CHRA being VSR balanced and the assembly being calibrated on a flow bench. Provided by TDI turbos

     - Bosch MAP sensor 3.5 b

     - DEI Turbo shield, Titanium wrap & Gold Tape

- Oil catch can

- WMI sistem – additional photos (click right)

- AIRTEC FMIC Ford Cosworth RS500 600x400mm 60mm

     - Alu FMIC/turbo pipes (stainless)

- Mocal 16 Row 235mm oil cooler

     - Oil cooler Pipes

- de-swirled intake manifold

- Custom exhaust70mm

- pipercross air filter - Auto Silicone Hoses – intake hose 102mm

- PLX AFR(Air to fuel ratio) probe

- PLX EGT (exhaust gas temperature) probe

-

Handling:

- Brakes

     - AP Racing CP5575-804S4R2

     - VW Phaeton W12 front discs, 365mm

     - Ferodo DS2500 pads

     - Tarox Sport Japan - rear discs

     - Tarox Strada 112 – rear pads

     - Goodridge braided brake hoses

- KW Variant3 coilovers

- PowerFlex

- BiscioneRacing strutbar

- Eibach anti-roll-bar-kit

- Quaife Limited Slip Diff

- Michelin Pilot Super Sport 235/40 ZR19 (96Y) XL

- Clutch&Fly Wheel

- TEIN EDFC active – Probably most demanding part of the project. This “Active” version can be controlled via GPS module without any input from the driver. It would set coilovers on “hard” on the highway, and soft while driving through the city. Main issue here was synching TEIN EDFC with KW coilovers…

- Aluminum control arms – Removing steel ones and saving weight with aluminum…not much weight, but still…

- Front wheel bearings

Looks:

- TI Steering Wheel

- Alfa Romeo car kit

- Oil Filler Cap

- Fuel Cap

- Water and Servo tanks

- Plastic Bootliner

- Aluminum trim custom paint

- Prodrive Brera S 19''

*List updated on 02.07.2016.

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First things first...turbo...

It was Adam and TDi Turbos that did their magic and supplied me with GTB2260VK hybrid that was simple plug and play option. I've opted against VKLR one to avoid oil and water pipes fitting(for the time being).

Adam also provided the pictures. :)

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While turbo merging took place, i was busy getting all other parts:

KW Variant 3

Prodrive 8C alloys 19''

Michelin Pilot Super Sport 235/40 ZR19 Y96

Tarox Sport Japan rear discs

Tarox Strada 112 rear pads

Phaeton Front Discs 365mm

AP Racing CP5575-804S4R2

Ferodo DS2500 Front pads

Goodridge braided hoses

Quaife LSD

Sachs Performance Clutch

AIRTEC FMIC 600x400mm 60mm core

Mocal  oil cooler

PowerFlex all around

Novitec front diffuser

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Everything except that FMIC was plug and play, or so I thought... :)

We started on the car...and did a good job when everything is taken into account. It took us two weeks to fit most of the things and finish all major hardware installation...from turbo and FMIC to PowerFlex and LSD . At the time, coilovers and few other items were not installed. This was part one finished...

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While this was taking place, mapping needed to be secured. I have contacted Gregor, known on AlfaOwner forum as TribesMan :) . Not only that he knows thing or two about mapping, he actually knew everything i have asked.

I had requested a map that will create a car for daily use, but one that won't be ashamed on the track also. That is what I got...

It was a bit bumpy, since I had only road to create logs. No dyno, and more important, no experience whatsoever on my side.  My first log runs produced more problems than information. First, clamps i used were not even close to the ones i needed, and then my custom made hose was impaled on AC compressor and blew. That was a minor sat back. Soon i got new hoses and some T clamps, and was back on the road creating logs.

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Around that time I started to get annoyed with the black smoke at the exhaust in high revs and when I gun it. Not much smoke, but enough to prevent me from enjoying the car completely.  Since we did quite a lot of work, and there was more on the way, I decided to take the car to get custom exhaust fitted, and after that to take the car to Alfa Romeo garage.  I needed to have intake manifold cleaned, coilovers fitted and car completely checked. 

This created more problems. After exhaust was fitted and intake cleaned, smoke was still there, even worse than before, but I've also experienced power loss in high revs. I've created new set of logs, everything was the same, except 0.7s slower time to 4500rpm. Gregor suspected some kind of air leak, and again, he was right...

I got the car with EGR blanked and DPF removed, but it seems that EGR part was not done properly. Blanking plate was poorly made, and leaked all over. Once we did that, smoke that appear when I sink the pedal  was gone...for a while.

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Around this time, i decided to have the car detailed...and then some. Even tho mechanically everything was not perfect, I wanted it to look as good as it can...Well, at that time, i thought detailing is something other people can do for you... little did i know

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While beautifying was going on, decision was made to de-swirl intake manifold. I got one from 2.4 166, cleaned it, painted it and installed it.

After that, smoke was almost gone. I did few more log runs, just to check where we are, and even tho there are few more things planed, Gregor created another map. That was the one. Finally, car run like it should from the beginning and if I was normal person, I would have given it a rest here...

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After all of this, few mote things happened...

Got new IC pipes

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WMI was installed

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Engine head got cracked...

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And replaced...

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But most importantly, I upgraded the brakes...

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Brakes upgrade on Alfa Brera - Part I

-Upgrading to AP Racing CP5575 6 pot with 365mm Audi RS4 B7 discs

This is going to be boring read for most people, but if someone decides, against common sense, to do this, it can save a lot of time.

As for the most other mods, I've gone the same route as James and Pete. Here are links to their original write-ups, and those are 95% complete tutorial on what needs to be done:

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tuning-andamp-upgrades/139399-f1-brera-progress-thread-formally-2-4-20v-p-box-45.html#post4525252

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tuning-andamp-upgrades/304828-clogz-brera-2-4-skunk-works-thread-13.html#post4844584

I'll try to fill remaining 5%

1. Addapters

At first, there was a dilemma if aluminum or steel was the way to go. Since throughout the project I'm trying to save weight, aluminum was the obvious choice, but this being the brakes mod, safety was the most important. After a bit of research, I found out that 7505 aluminum was the best choice, but not every temper had the same properties. So, i have managed to source out 7075-T6, and continued with the job.

With a bit of trouble, local shop was able to make a pair

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In order to keep the most material on the adapter, bolt head will have to be trimmed down...

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I have used new pair of discs skimmed to 32mm(originaly 34mm), and new pair of Ferodo DS2500 pads trimmed down to 17mm(originally those were 18mm thick). In order for that set-up to work, there is one more thing that needed to be done on the adapters. Inner pad needs couple more millimeters in order to fit perfectly. Unfortunately, i don't have precise measurements, since it was late at night, and I wanted the job done (or at least i thought at the time), so images should do explaining part, hopefully...

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to be continued...

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Brakes upgrade on Alfa Brera - Part II

-Upgrading to AP Racing CP5575 6 pot with 365mm Audi RS4 B7 discs

2. Discs

Altho subtitle says discs are from Audi RS4 B7, in my case, it's not entirely truth. Since these are floating discs, I have used rotors from VW Phaeton, and hats from RS4. Discs are the same, except VW ones are just grooved and not drilled. This part should have been straight forward... I have skimmed the discs, hats are flipped as they should be, and everything was ready for a test drive. After reversing the car only few centimeters, I've noticed there is a problem. It felt like handbrake was on. Again, we lifted the car and started troubleshooting. Wheels were locked and couldn't be moved. Even now I'm not even sure how we came to an idea to loosen wheel bolts a bit and try, but that did the trick. Somehow, wheels were spinning freely...I'll try to explain...

When the hats were flipped, part that goes on the wheel hub is now facing rim

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Problem is that diameter of the hub is smaller than one of the hub mount plate and that's reflected on the disc hat

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So, when bolts are tightened, hub mount plate is pressuring only small part of the hat . Part that has all the pressure applied to is wider than the wheel hub, so hat is being bent, disc is pressured on the pad, thus blocking the wheels.

Well, the solution was simple one...spacers. And that explains why Pete and James didn't get in the same trouble...they had them to begin with.

I didn't want spacers, but alternative was to machine hats so everything fits. Problem was, by doing that, I would weaken hats themselves and that would create safety issue. So, this is what we did...

1. just flattened center of the hat, removing 0.2mm of the material, increasing diametar of the center circle to 138mm

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2. Had 137mm whide and 3.3mm thick spacers custom made

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That insured hat being nicely fit between wheel hub and hub mount plate, leaving the discs centered between the pads, and the wheels spinning freely.

This part was even more troublesome than it sounds, with local machine shop making a mess of the job. I had to further skim the discs by 0.5mm and pads bu 0.2mm.

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Brakes upgrade on Alfa Brera - Part III

-Upgrading to AP Racing CP5575 6 pot with 365mm Audi RS4 B7 discs

Adapters and discs are by far the most complicated parts of this mod, but there are few other things that require "special attention"

3. Pads

I have got Ferodo DS2500 18mm ones(FRP3003), and thined them down to 17mm in order to fit.  Also, there is this option for the track.

4. Hoses and fittings

APs require different fitting than the OEM calipers, so there are two options. Obvious one is to order custom braided hoses and be done with it. I, however, have gone the other way. Since i had new, perfectly good Goodridge hoses in my possession, i have decided to make steel fittings and have them zinc plated

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90° angle close to the caliper, made hose management much easier

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5. Bolts and stuff they bolt to

First of all, make sure to use 12.9 grade bolts.

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For fitting caliper to adapter, used M12x1.5 70mm allen bolts, and that part went without a glitch.

Part where i needed to fit adapter to control arm was another headache...

I've ordered M14x1.5 30mm bolts and fitted everything on the passengers side without any problems. When tried the same on the driver's side, disc was not centered between the pads. It was 1mm off. Took out measuring tool, but to no avail. Everything was the same. Changed adapters, discs, pads, even calipers from the passengers side with the same results.

Again, took everything apart, and found the problem. Actual control arm is different somehow. It's probably an just Alfa thing. I've started calling local car breakers, and have found left arm, but... Guys said "aluminum", and then i've remembered...Pete (Clogz on AO), had to order new set of bolts with 1.75 pitch, since his control arm was different than the one James (jbsmith1 on AO) had. It now makes sense...aluminum ones have 2.0mm pitch, and steel ones have 1.5mm pitch. So, if you are doing this, first make sure you are ordering the right bolts, especially if, like me, you have to wait for 10 days to get them :

Luckily, i have a friend with Alfa 159, so we switched control arms and solved the problem. Looks like 1mm isn't much with factory settings, after all  ;D

I'll be getting aluminum ones, as a weight reduction exercise, but first i want to enjoy my brakes

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To be honest, a lot more has been happening throughout this ordeal, but let me get you up to date...

I got new, bigger turbo. Garret

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Got car dismantled completely...

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Painted in 8C competizione...

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Enigine is being detailed and upgraded...

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As i said, there is a lot more going on. From sat-nav upgrade, AFR and EGT probes install, coilover control from the cabin (EDFC)... I'll be doing writeups as it happens. There is only one thing...please do tell me if you think I'm doing something wrong...after all, that is the purpose of the forums...

And yes... Go Ole (heia Ole)  ;D

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The pricetag on this build must be over the moon!  :o

Your car looks and probably drives great. The question now is.. what numbers are we takling about on the dyno?  ::)

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Dyno isn't planned. Thing is, i never cared much about the numbers. Took the car to the dyno only once to try and figured out what has been causing excessive smoke and power loss. From what i know, in Serbia, there isn't a dyno with proper fans that can produce somewhat valid results. If i had been using it as a tool from the start to check improvements, than it would be different. This way, i can relay on numbers from the logs to get an idea of the power.

With new turbo, exhaust manifold and new map it should be well over 300HP, atho it wasn't far away from that number with the previous setup.

As far as cost is concerned...it's not cheap, that's for sure, but having done almost everything in Serbia, it's much cheaper than it would be in Norway. Main issue for me was to find time that i could spend in the garage.

At the moment, plan is to have car on the road early next month, since it's in bits and pieces now. Here are few more pictures...KW unibal top mounts

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AP Racing brake callipers painted in 8C

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Thought you might had some numbers if you had the car re-mapped professionally. But I agree, the number doesn't count if the car feels right.

Just the paintjob would cost a shitload of cash here in Norway.. But hey, everything does! Love the look of new and shiny parts ;)

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Car was professionally re-maped, but we had to do it via emails :) I got everything needed for creating data logs, and then sent those over to Gregor (tuner). Then he does his magic and sends me new map(2Mb .bin file) that i just load into the car via OBD. It's actually really easy to do. It would be much quicker if we could have done it in person, but this way i've learned a lot of things :)

Painting the car was one of the expensive things here too, since i wanted to do it properly, painting the engine bay too...

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And now back to live...  :D

Some parts came back from the paint shop. Some kid of extra though epoxy paint has been used. Everything was sandblasted before going into paint booth

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Also, new spacers have been machined from a single block of stainless steel

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